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Overview

This event explored the role of science in reducing the environmental impact of the fashion industry.

This event outlined the fashion sector's largest sustainability challenges and identified areas where transdisciplinary approaches to innovation are required to drive progress.

The meeting brought together key stakeholders from across industry, academia, policy and finance to explore themes such as design innovation, social science, material science, manufacturing efficiency and end-of-life.

Conference report

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About the conference series

This scientific meeting is part of the Royal Society’s Transforming our Future conference series. These meetings are unique, high-level events that address the scientific and technical challenges of the next decade. Each conference features cutting edge science from industry and academia and brings together leading experts from the scientific community, including regulatory, charity and funding bodies. 

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Organisers

Schedule

12:45-12:50
Welcome address

Speakers

12:50-13:10
Keynote talk - Sustainable fashion: the challenges ahead for the sector

Abstract

The fashion and textiles industry is a major part of the global economy. In Europe, clothing is the eighth largest sector in terms of household spending, with over a million tonnes of clothing purchased annually in the UK alone. However, the sector is ranked fourth in terms of its impacts on the environment, with negative consequences at all stages of the life cycle including: the production of both natural and synthetic fibres, creation of garments, dying, the use phase, laundering and final disposal.

Tackling the issue will require us to design more durable clothing, and to make re-use and repair more feasible. Prioritising interventions will require a systems perspective and implementation will necessitate collaboration between environmental, social and material scientists, designers, retailers, customers, and those involved in re-use and recycling. It will also require legislation, education, and behavioural change to catalyse action.

Speakers

Professor Richard Thompson OBE FRS

University of Plymouth


Chair

Professor Jane Harris

University of the Arts London, Fashion, Textiles & Technology Institute

13:10-13:15
Introduction to the session
13:15-13:35
Challenging perceptions of fast and slow fashion: 1960s paper dresses and the concept of disposable garments

Abstract

In this talk, Liz and Hannah will explore how historic models of fashion and textile manufacture can inspire new sustainable models for both manufacture and consumption. Using the paper dress trend of the 1960s as a starting point, they discuss how garments with purposeful short-term life-cycles could offer new sustainable opportunities - matching a garment's use phase to the longevity of the material it is made from.

This talk will use a material culture approach to explore original 1960s paper garments, alongside a critical analysis of the sustainability of their manufacture and disposal.

Liz and Hannah argue that the current paradigm of slow fashion as the only antidote to fast fashion must be challenged. Instead, the fashion and textile sector must consider a range of solutions to the environmental burden of fast fashion that are human-centred and sympathetic to all consumer demographics and needs.

Speakers

Dr Liz Tregenza

London College of Fashion

Hannah Auerbach George

Victoria and Albert Museum

13:35-13:55
Environmentally driven design: transdisciplinary approaches to circular and sustainable innovation

Abstract

As Chair of Circular Design and Innovation and Director of UAL's Centre for Circular Design, Kate's research focus over the past decade has been in the alignment of environmental science and circular design principles for a positive fashion and textiles industry.

Her approach is based on the early alignment of design and science, technology, engineering and medicine (STEM) disciplines to work on complex system issues and new methodologies. Better use of data, stakeholder engagement and interdisciplinarity are essential to address the scale of the challenges the industry is facing. However, the global fashion and textiles industry is complex and there are few established methods for such integration at scale and pace.

This talk will present previous and ongoing research that integrates the particular characteristics of fashion and textile design, material and environmental sciences. Examples demonstrate new transdisciplinary approaches to R&D with UK-based small-to-medium sized enterprises (SMEs) focussed on circular and sustainable technology innovation where creativity is central to progress.

Speakers

Professor Kate Goldsworthy

University of the Arts London, Fashion, Textiles & Technology Institute

13:55-14:05
Q&A session

Speakers

Dr Liz Tregenza

London College of Fashion

Hannah Auerbach George

Victoria and Albert Museum

Professor Kate Goldsworthy

University of the Arts London, Fashion, Textiles & Technology Institute


Chair

Andrew Yip

PANGAIA

14:35-14:40
Introduction to the session
14:40-14:50
Case study: Virustatic

Abstract

Virustatic technologies harness innovations of the natural world whilst reducing the usage of harmful and polluting chemical compounds. Their patented Viruferrin® compound is a protein-based antimicrobial, antibacterial, antiviral and antifungal textile coating. Viruferrin® has been developed as an ecologically friendly alternative to conventional textile treatments.

Speakers

Dr Joseph Houghton

Virustatic, University of Leeds, University of the Arts London, Fashion, Textiles & Technology Institute

14:50-15:00
Case study: Hide Biotech

Abstract

Hide Biotech Ltd is building a sustainable biomaterial from extracted marine collagen. While replicating the authentic feel of leather, the biomaterial significantly reduces water consumption, carbon footprint, land use and waste generated in the manufacturing process. Their supply chain is 100% traceable.

Speakers

Dr Yudi Ding

Hide Biotech

15:00-15:10
Case study: Project Plan B

Abstract

Project Plan B is a B2B clothing company that designs, manufactures and recycles clothing at the end of life to provide circularity in garment development. They have successfully piloted technology that can mechanically recycle polyester back to rPET: the building blocks of all polyester clothing.

Speakers

Tim Cross

Project Plan B

15:10-15:20
Case study: DyeRecycle

Abstract

DyeRecycle, a spinout from Imperial College London, has developed a circular chemical technology to decolour textile waste and reuse old dyes. Their technology selectively extracts dyes from waste fibres, which can then be transferred onto new fabric. The decoloured white fibre remaining provides high-value uniform input for mechanical and chemical fibre-to-fibre recyclers.

Speakers

Dr Aida Rafat

DyeRecycle

15:25-16:00
Q&A and discussion session

Speakers

Dr Yudi Ding

Hide Biotech

Dr Joseph Houghton

Virustatic, University of Leeds, University of the Arts London, Fashion, Textiles & Technology Institute

Dr Aida Rafat

DyeRecycle

Tim Cross

Project Plan B


Chair

Professor Jane Harris

University of the Arts London, Fashion, Textiles & Technology Institute

16:20-17:20
Guided discussion and audience Q&A

Abstract

This session will examine the broader policy and economic challenges around making the fashion industry more sustainable. Panellists will explore themes such as balancing the longevity of fabrics against the culture of consumption, future research priorities for the sector, and how to de-silo disciplines and sectors relevant to the industry.

Speakers

Lucy Hope

Virustatic

Sarah Gray

WRAP

Professor James Busfield

Queen Mary University of London

17:20-17:30
Closing remarks from the organisers

Speakers

Andrew Yip

PANGAIA

Professor Jane Harris

University of the Arts London, Fashion, Textiles & Technology Institute

Professor Richard Thompson OBE FRS

University of Plymouth

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