Sustainable fashion: transdisciplinary approaches to innovation

23 May 2023 12:45 - 17:30 Online Free
Sustainable fashion

This event explored the role of science in reducing the environmental impact of the fashion industry.

This event outlined the fashion sector's largest sustainability challenges and identified areas where transdisciplinary approaches to innovation are required to drive progress.

The meeting brought together key stakeholders from across industry, academia, policy and finance to explore themes such as design innovation, social science, material science, manufacturing efficiency and end-of-life.

Conference report

Download conference report

About the conference series

This scientific meeting is part of the Royal Society’s Transforming our Future conference series. These meetings are unique, high-level events that address the scientific and technical challenges of the next decade. Each conference features cutting edge science from industry and academia and brings together leading experts from the scientific community, including regulatory, charity and funding bodies. 

Watch the video recording

Click watch on YouTube to view the full video playlist.

Organisers

  • Professor Jane Harris

    Professor Jane Harris

    Jane is Professor of Digital Design and Innovation, Director of the Fashion, Textiles and Technology Institute (FTTI) at University of the Arts London. She is also Director of the Business of Fashion, Textiles and Technology Creative R&D Partnership, as part of an £80million UK wide AHRC Creative Industries Cluster Programme (CICP), and Director of Research and Innovation (Stratford), which includes leadership of R&D initiatives aligned to the new UAL campus (Sept 2023), at East Bank, on the Queen Elizabeth Park, London.

    She is a Co-I on an Engineering and Physical Sciences Research Council (EPSRC) Digital Economy Network Plus Award. Her research practice combines award winning expertise in textile design and creative computing, with a track record of leading collaborative XR, design research and R&D.

    With board-level representation in sector-leading organisations such as the V&A, Scottish Arts Council, and advisory roles for the Royal Shakespeare Company, Arts Council England, Crafts Council and Arts Foundation, Jane is advisor to councils across UK Research and Innovation (UKRI), the EU Commission for ICT and various international research councils.

  • Richard Thompson

    Professor Richard Thompson OBE FRS

    Richard is a Professor of Marine Biology and Director of the University of Plymouth, Marine Institute. He is a world expert on plastic pollution. In 2004, he published the first paper describing the accumulation of microscopic fragments of plastic in the environment, naming them 'microplastics'.

    He and his team have been at the forefront of microplastics research showing their global distribution, the potential for transfer from the gut to the circulatory system, and their role in the transport of chemicals. This pioneering work was pivotal in recognition of microplastic contamination in policy, such as Marine Strategy Framework Directive.

  • Andrew Yip

    Andrew Yip

    Andrew Yip leads the materials and process innovation function within the PANGAIA R&D team, focusing on sustainable technologies in the areas of biopolymers, carbon-capture and utilization, green chemistry, waterless processing, and regenerative agriculture/agroforestry. He received his MS degree in Materials Science from the University of California Santa Barbara and BS in Physics from Johns Hopkins University. Since leaving school he has held various material development & commercialization roles at adidas and The North Face.

    Andrew has contributed to a number of projects & patents such as the commercial launch of the world’s first fully-recyclable performance running shoe (adidas Made To Be Remade), the early development of the lowest carbon footprint performance running shoe (adidas x allbirds), one of the first engineered jacquard woven jackets in the outdoor industry (The North Face FuseForm), and numerous products that have been used in the harshest environments on Earth (The North Face Summit and Steep Series). In his spare time he likes to go rock climbing, hiking with his family, and learning new things.

Schedule

12:45-12:50 Welcome address
Dr Alicia Greated, Chief Executive Officer, KTN

Dr Alicia Greated, Chief Executive Officer, KTN

12:50-13:10 Keynote talk - Sustainable fashion: the challenges ahead for the sector

The fashion and textiles industry is a major part of the global economy. In Europe, clothing is the eighth largest sector in terms of household spending, with over a million tonnes of clothing purchased annually in the UK alone. However, the sector is ranked fourth in terms of its impacts on the environment, with negative consequences at all stages of the life cycle including: the production of both natural and synthetic fibres, creation of garments, dying, the use phase, laundering and final disposal.

Tackling the issue will require us to design more durable clothing, and to make re-use and repair more feasible. Prioritising interventions will require a systems perspective and implementation will necessitate collaboration between environmental, social and material scientists, designers, retailers, customers, and those involved in re-use and recycling. It will also require legislation, education, and behavioural change to catalyse action.

Professor Richard Thompson OBE FRS

Professor Richard Thompson OBE FRS

University of Plymouth

Chair

Professor Jane Harris

Professor Jane Harris

University of the Arts London, Fashion, Textiles & Technology Institute

13:10-13:15 Introduction to the session
13:15-13:35 Challenging perceptions of fast and slow fashion: 1960s paper dresses and the concept of disposable garments

In this talk, Liz and Hannah will explore how historic models of fashion and textile manufacture can inspire new sustainable models for both manufacture and consumption. Using the paper dress trend of the 1960s as a starting point, they discuss how garments with purposeful short-term life-cycles could offer new sustainable opportunities - matching a garment's use phase to the longevity of the material it is made from.

This talk will use a material culture approach to explore original 1960s paper garments, alongside a critical analysis of the sustainability of their manufacture and disposal.

Liz and Hannah argue that the current paradigm of slow fashion as the only antidote to fast fashion must be challenged. Instead, the fashion and textile sector must consider a range of solutions to the environmental burden of fast fashion that are human-centred and sympathetic to all consumer demographics and needs.

Dr Liz Tregenza

Dr Liz Tregenza

London College of Fashion

Hannah Auerbach George

Hannah Auerbach George

Victoria and Albert Museum

13:35-13:55 Environmentally driven design: transdisciplinary approaches to circular and sustainable innovation

As Chair of Circular Design and Innovation and Director of UAL's Centre for Circular Design, Kate's research focus over the past decade has been in the alignment of environmental science and circular design principles for a positive fashion and textiles industry.

Her approach is based on the early alignment of design and science, technology, engineering and medicine (STEM) disciplines to work on complex system issues and new methodologies. Better use of data, stakeholder engagement and interdisciplinarity are essential to address the scale of the challenges the industry is facing. However, the global fashion and textiles industry is complex and there are few established methods for such integration at scale and pace.

This talk will present previous and ongoing research that integrates the particular characteristics of fashion and textile design, material and environmental sciences. Examples demonstrate new transdisciplinary approaches to R&D with UK-based small-to-medium sized enterprises (SMEs) focussed on circular and sustainable technology innovation where creativity is central to progress.

Professor Kate Goldsworthy

Professor Kate Goldsworthy

University of the Arts London, Fashion, Textiles & Technology Institute

13:55-14:05 Q&A session
Dr Liz Tregenza

Dr Liz Tregenza

London College of Fashion

Hannah Auerbach George

Hannah Auerbach George

Victoria and Albert Museum

Professor Kate Goldsworthy

Professor Kate Goldsworthy

University of the Arts London, Fashion, Textiles & Technology Institute

Chair

Andrew Yip

Andrew Yip

PANGAIA

14:35-14:40 Introduction to the session
14:40-14:50 Case study: Virustatic

Virustatic technologies harness innovations of the natural world whilst reducing the usage of harmful and polluting chemical compounds. Their patented Viruferrin® compound is a protein-based antimicrobial, antibacterial, antiviral and antifungal textile coating. Viruferrin® has been developed as an ecologically friendly alternative to conventional textile treatments.

Dr Joseph Houghton

Dr Joseph Houghton

Virustatic, University of Leeds, University of the Arts London, Fashion, Textiles & Technology Institute

14:50-15:00 Case study: Hide Biotech

Hide Biotech Ltd is building a sustainable biomaterial from extracted marine collagen. While replicating the authentic feel of leather, the biomaterial significantly reduces water consumption, carbon footprint, land use and waste generated in the manufacturing process. Their supply chain is 100% traceable.

Dr Yudi Ding

Dr Yudi Ding

Hide Biotech

15:00-15:10 Case study: Project Plan B

Project Plan B is a B2B clothing company that designs, manufactures and recycles clothing at the end of life to provide circularity in garment development. They have successfully piloted technology that can mechanically recycle polyester back to rPET: the building blocks of all polyester clothing.

Tim Cross

Tim Cross

Project Plan B

15:10-15:20 Case study: DyeRecycle

DyeRecycle, a spinout from Imperial College London, has developed a circular chemical technology to decolour textile waste and reuse old dyes. Their technology selectively extracts dyes from waste fibres, which can then be transferred onto new fabric. The decoloured white fibre remaining provides high-value uniform input for mechanical and chemical fibre-to-fibre recyclers.

Dr Aida Rafat

Dr Aida Rafat

DyeRecycle

15:25-16:00 Q&A and discussion session
Dr Yudi Ding

Dr Yudi Ding

Hide Biotech

Dr Joseph Houghton

Dr Joseph Houghton

Virustatic, University of Leeds, University of the Arts London, Fashion, Textiles & Technology Institute

Dr Aida Rafat

Dr Aida Rafat

DyeRecycle

Tim Cross

Tim Cross

Project Plan B

Chair

Professor Jane Harris

Professor Jane Harris

University of the Arts London, Fashion, Textiles & Technology Institute

16:20-17:20 Guided discussion and audience Q&A

This session will examine the broader policy and economic challenges around making the fashion industry more sustainable. Panellists will explore themes such as balancing the longevity of fabrics against the culture of consumption, future research priorities for the sector, and how to de-silo disciplines and sectors relevant to the industry.

Lucy Hope

Lucy Hope

Virustatic

Sarah Gray

Sarah Gray

WRAP

Mart Drake-Knight

Mart Drake-Knight

Teemill

Professor James Busfield

Professor James Busfield

Queen Mary University of London

17:20-17:30 Closing remarks from the organisers
Andrew Yip

Andrew Yip

PANGAIA

Professor Jane Harris

Professor Jane Harris

University of the Arts London, Fashion, Textiles & Technology Institute

Professor Richard Thompson OBE FRS

Professor Richard Thompson OBE FRS

University of Plymouth